Regarding range, that depends on the power usage vs battery capacity. For non-fat tires in the sub-2.5" range I think it would need to be about 94% (or 106%, depending on which way it goes) of the gearing you'd've used with the smaller one on same type of tires. You could probably lower the gearing on the bigger wheels to make them "the same" as the smaller ones AFAICS it's a pretty small difference. The IGH would be less vulnerable to environmental damage than the derailer and cassette/freewheel mechanism.īelts vs chains is a thing to look into for +/- for your specific use case, since each has limitations. There's less stress on the wheel's axle, and it's possible to reduce stress on the BB and axle, by moving the chainline as far inboard as possible without frame strike/rub, and keeping it there in a nice straight line. The belt (or chain) / IGH will have less chance of chain derailment or damage during shifting due to accidental shifting under power, as long as the IGH is designed to do this internally (for instance, Rohloff has the gear detents inside it instead of in the shifter, so you don't get gear munching inside because of incomplete shifts, etc.but it's still better to cut power during the shifts). There are a few threads about that sort of thing if you want to see the details.Ī chain could still be used instead of the belt, and still use an IGH, for some advantages either way. If you wanted to use an IGH on the rear wheel rather than derailer, you could adapt the system to a Gates belt drive (which normally requires a split frame). It will probably be so small that it won't matter.but if the applied torque is high enough and the loading is highly cyclic, it could stress the frame across that point and someday cause fatigue cracking. Some speculation: Since the stay on the drive side is at a different location relative to the BB shell vs the non drive side, there will be some twisting of the frame below the stay connection point to the seatpost above the BB shell, and some amount of chainline deformation from that. So: Trek Stache w/ raised drive-side chain stay plus a BBSHD, Good idea / Worth a try? It seems like it will be geared too high for some hills with these big hoops, compared to 27.5”. Negatives include dated (steep) geometry and the big 29” wheels. ![]() The Trek Stache checks other boxes for me too, like availability and decent quality. I climb steep hills off-road so having the motor all the way into the bottom bracket shell with no spacers is critical. This looks like the solution for me, as it should allow better chain line and the use of most or all of the big cogs on the cassette. If these photos will post, you will see that the drive-side chain stay is up out of the way of the motor and chainring. I’ve been reading the forums, hitting the bike shops and scouring Craig’s List and Facebook Mkt Place in search of the perfect bike to electrify. ![]() ![]() I have no complaints about the X-1 but it looks like I can get more speed, power and range by converting a good mountain bike with a BBSHD and the best battery I can find. I’m into my third season on a Luna X-1 (Bafang M600 mid drive). I’m a long time two-wheeler person, moto, pedal and ebike. I didn’t see an area for introductions so I’ll give some background on myself before I ask my ebike question.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |